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October 04, 2006

Party Like It's 1999

PARTY LIKE IT’S 1999!!
Party Like its 1999... oh wait- it is 1999!
Eun ku ta tash! Happy Ethiopian New Year! In 1582, when we converted from the Julian calendar to the Grogorian one- Ethiopia didn't. So I celebrated Ethiopia's New Year last night (September 10, 2006) with 2 Canadians, a Brit, a Thai and a Phillipino.... we sang Karaoke and drank red wine. Not exactly the typical New Year, but heah, it was fun. It's not like I haven't already celebrated 1999 before.

But today (September 11, 2006) I rang in the new year traditionally! One of my co-workers, Girma, invited me to his home to celebrate with his family. We took a minibus to his aunt and uncle's house. Along the way people were dressed traditionally in beautiful dresses and suits. Women wear soft white cottonn dresses with accents of metallic fabrics. A few last minute shoppers walked down the street with a sheep slung over their shoulders like a shawl and holding chickens by thier legs. Most of the herds of sheep that usually dot the sides of road transformed into piles of hides waiting to be exported.

When I arrived to his house I was greeted by two of his sisters, his aunt, uncle, niece, nephew and cousin. The women went to the kitchen to cook... since I was a guest I wasn't asked to join them, so I stayed in the living room with Girma, the baby Naomi, his nephew and uncle.
Lunch was served outside on the patio- beside the drying bras, panties and laundry... The floor of the house and the patio where we ate were covered in long grass. It is put down to symbolize springtime and to celebrate renewed life and the new year. We ate dorowat which is a really delicious stew and tibs (goat meat) served on injera and home made bread. His family was nice. They spoke a little English, but we ate mostly in silence. We all sat on small chairs which resemble footstools. After lunch there was a knock on the gate-five Orthodox priests came in with drums and tall sticks. They danced and sang for the family. It was a blessing to bring in the New Year! So cool-
Then we had the traditional coffee. The maids roasted the coffee beans on the stove, brought them around for us all to smell, then ground them in a beautiful wooden mortar and pistol and then made some of the best coffee I've ever had. It is prepared over coals and served in small glasses.

Then we drank tela, local "beer" brewed by their neighbors, and talked.
On our way out Girma's older sister grabbed my hand and said "I hope you be part of the family." Then she held my hand and walked me all the way to the main road. I am so flattered and what a great thing to hear... but I wonder if they all thought I was his girlfriend????

Next we went to Girma's other house where he stays while he is working/going to school. What a humbling expereince! I needed today to put things in perspective. Girma is a short, dark black, soft spoken historian. He works at FTA with me and at night goes to class to finish his MA. in history. Today in all my vanity I wore high heels to the New Year's lunch. I almost twisted my ankly several times trying to maneuver my way around puddles, goat droppings, and rocks down the dirt road. When I finally arrived to his house I asked to use the bathroom, he pointed to a tin door. I entered the dark room only to find a hole in the ground. I tried to squat and keep dry. When I finished I realized that my long pants had gotten wet on the floor- I smelled like pee the rest of the day! I'm not sure if people were being polite or if they didn't notice- but noone said anything. My point is not poor me I smelled like piss, the point is- Girma who has the same job as me shares a room (servant's quarters) with another man behind a house. His bathroom is a covered hole. I must be getting paid 10x what he is plus I've been given an amazing house, with my own room, that is just across the street from work!

We ( the 5 people who live in the main house, Girma's roomate, and an Orthodox priest) sat in main house drinking more Tela, eating more homemade bread and watching Ethiopiam TV- There is an Ethiopian idol belive it or not... it looks like a broadcated highschool talent show ( and kinda sounded like one too). We watched broadcasts from Dubai, Yemen and other countries. The Ethiopian government was wishing Ethiopians abroad a Happy New Year... and also stirring up some nationalism, asking for them to send money home and to "support" their country... interesting move since the current Prime Minister seems to strategizing some big political moves these days... oh yeah we also watched a banana eating eating contest- Ethio TV is great!!

It was a great day- I met his friends who like all Ethiopians were delightfully generous, interesting and inviting. I can't wait to live 1999 in Ethiopia!!

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