Tricia in Ethiopia

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Miss Virgin Ethiopia!

May 26, 2007

No..no... I didn't win the beauty contest- but I was one of the judges last weekend. "Why?," you ask. Well, because how many times in your life do you get to a judge a Miss Virgin Ethiopia contest?

My observations:

Beauty pageants are disgusting!

The virgins were dressed more scandalously sexy than anyone I've ever seen.

Miss Virgin Ethiopia contestants have little of interest to say.

One girl's top came off as she was doing the catwalk.

And lastly, despite all this, I thoroughly enjoyed myself-I am a brutal judge.

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UPDATE

Friends: Everyone seems to be getting married and pregnant! Those who aren't continue to leave Ethiopia...

Next year: Looks like returning to the States, isn't going to happen. A few jobs I turned down last year have contacted me regarding this year... we'll see. My conditions for renewal of contract at this school go to the board tonight...

Work: Just as things look up, they come pouring down.

Today just as the rain began to leak through my classroom roof and the hail blow under the door- the classroom next door flooded, which meant that 60 5 year olds had to cram into my classroom until 5 pm because noone could retrieve their children due to flooding! With the rainy season upon us- who knows what the next few weeks of flooding and bad roofs will mean.

Yoga:

My instructor asked me to lead our adult yoga class while she is on vacation for three weeks. Though honored, I had to decline... I've only been practicing 6 months.

I've begun teaching yoga to the kinder section. It is really fun and the children love it.

That's bout all...

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T-Rex

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MS. JILL GOT FIRED!

March 29, 2007

It is so funny how things work out; in a diary entry just a few weeks ago I wrote,"This week I realized I was no longer being genuine and so have became unhappy. I am not genuine at work with all the gossip and indirect meanness. I'm not genuine in my teaching... I love my students but I have given into a teaching methodology that I don't enjoy or believe in. I've continued to work for an administration I don't respect." And now all that has changed!

I can't say I am responsible for MS. JILL GETTING FIRED!!!, but in all honesty I think I had a part to play in it. I am happy for myself and for the school! Ms. Jill has only made herself look even more immature, incompetent and crazy since she's been fired! She comes to the school to talk to the parents and tell them that everything the school is saying is a lie. She showed up with police one day- not sure why. She is planning to sue the school. She tried to take all the worksheets that we teachers have been making all year (so she can create her own workbook to sell). And she deleted EVERYTHING on her computer- I'm sure there was information on there that would get her in trouble- and she was being vengeful, so now all student files, report cards, etc. are lost!

Aside from my fellow teachers who are crying, forming alliances and generally being mean to those of us who don't care that Jill was fired...everything is great!!!! Our new supervisor Stephanie is excellent, well qualified and most importantly shares my philosophy of teaching. As of next week- no more worksheets, she wants activities, no drilling, music class, etc. Best of all, Stephanie wants to know what we the teachers want to do!! All this change mid year means much more work! But I'm excited, at least I'll soon be teaching authentically!

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Ethiopian Dream Interpretation

Recently I've begun to learn a lot about Ethiopian dream interpretation. I don't know if they're true or if they only apply to Ethiopians, but they are interesting to think about. The basic interpretations I've learned so far are-

Most images should be interpreted according to the opposite meaning:

laughter means pain or sadness

crying means happiness

blood is good luck

vomit is good luck

anything gross (puss, etc) is good luck

Pregnant means your holding a burden/worry

when you give birth, the problem is solved-released

Raw meat symbolizes death

The loss of a body part means death

Washing (clothes, body, etc.) means you will lose something

Water symbolizes family

Shopping shows indecisiveness

Girl's underwear means a female daughter

Anything sexual is the devil

Putting butter in your hair (what Ethiopian women do to make their hair shiny and moisturized) means you will get sick

Sitting on someone's lap or laying in bed with them shows a bond or closeness

That's all I can remember. Sweet Dreams! Or maybe I should wish you bloody, vomit and puss filled dreams...

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FTA update- March 22

I am becoming more comfortable in my class. My students are making real progress. The workload has become manageable. But the gossip and drama continues.

Our supervisor seems to play favorites... maybe it is unintentional, but there are always offical competitions, the week class A wins, there are certificates and prizes, while the weeks when other classes win, their victory goes unmentioned.

We were evaluated based on opinion alone. I got my evaluation back and while I didn't disagree with anything, they couldn't really jutify my results or give ways for me to improve.

And the lastest drama- while I was crouched down pretending to a rocketship, counting backwards towards blast off, the school director (Fessaha- which sounds a lot like the Amharic word for fart) walked into my classroom and asked to speak to me. I was called into his office to nark on my supervisor (Jill- the fitting, Amharic word for fool). Seeing as I don't much like her, I told all. Bad decision? He said there are rumors that Jill wants to open her own school and is recruiting teachers, I told him what I knew. Then I told Jill that Fessaha had asked me and told her exactly what I had told him!?!! Am I stupid? Am I just creating drama? I don't quite know why I did all that, but looks like Ms. Jill most likely won't be there next year.

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The birthday party

March, 2007

Aman, the music teacher, invited me to his nephew's birthday party. I was so excited to be invited. When I arrived the party began like an official ceremony. On the far side 3 rows of people readjusted in their seats, crooked their necks to catch sight of me. The baby was thrown into my arms, a minister rose and began his preaching, singing began.

Now, I've never been to the South (USA), but I felt I was there. The walls were covered in a green, landscape wallpaper reminicsent of the South. Aman's friends and family sang passionately with their eyes closed, swaying back and forth. The music was strangely not Ethiopian, the attire distinctly not Ethiopian.

Then 5 snotty children stood up and explained that they would be presenting a performance in English because they are well practiced in English. They sang Pentecostal prayers, recited poems, etc. The friendly man sitting next to me casually metioned that he would like a sponsor for his children. I was relieved when he finally left (I am totally opposed to being anyone's sponsor without thoroughtly knowing the person and his circumstances), but then I was bombarded by equally irritating people.

First there are the irritating sponsor seekers. Second, there are those who revere anything and all things Western. I find many Ethiopians strangely hypocritical. While they are so proud of their culture, they strive to be Western. They have reason to be proud of their ancient, beautiful culture. Their clothes are beautiful, their music is beautiful, their dance is beautiful, their customs are beautiful. So anyways, these girls were telling me how proud they are of being Ethiopian, but that they only speak English (apparently they're not proud of their language). They think Ethiopians are so beautiful -but not the really black ones- and black people's hair is not! They like hair like mine. And they want to live in England or the United States, as if that will be a way to preserve and live their culture, as if that will do any good for their country.

And finally there are the most irritating of them all- the products of Western missionaries, the Pentecostals or Pente as we call them here. I was repeatedly greeted and immediately asked if I am a Christian. Why is that anyone's first question? Lately I've been unsure of my faith, questioning things, looking at faith in different ways. Instead of lying I replied, I'm not sure if I'm a Christian. Well that was the most shocking thing these people ever heard. An eleven year old generously gave me to 2 minutes to decide, as if I haven't spent the last 10 years trying to decide. They all regurgitated the same information over and over: God's love is the most amazing love, you'll go to hell if you don't believe, other Christians aren't real Christians, etc. It was really uncomfortable. They wanted to convert me, but as a guest in their home, how can I bring up all my doubts to debate their argument? I don't want to dissuade them of their faith, but I want them to let me alone.

So this elaborate party was a view into one Ethiopian culture I don't like. Interestingly it felt the most American that I've experienced. They gave little speach's about the birthday child, the guests got up and presented the gifts to the family, took photos, videotaped and even had a proffesional videographer there. There were two cakes, tons of food... it was excessive. And while I appreciate their obvious love and joy for the child, it was a lousy party!

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March 17, 2007

This morning I realized that I'm finally accustomed to life here. The details that made Addis seem so Addis are hardly noticable anymore. The constant honking and unruly driving now seems orderly. The strange language- makes sense. The city is no longer a jumble of unpaved roads lined by identical tin walls. Now, as I walk the roads I can see homes and businesses.

I crave the food, drink the tap water. I even make some of the local dishes. Raw meat is no longer a novelty... come to think of it- I am no longer a novelty. I think finally my neighbors have also become accustomed to me. I am no longer the "farenji" or simply called white... they know me, my schedule, interests, how I like my coffee, etc.

The fusion of modern and traditional, Western and African, at first odd, is now beautiful. Baggy T-shirts paired with skirts, stripes, polka dots and floral patterns- now match.

When my water is shut off for a week at a time, I accept it. When power goes out, I accept it. When the bill takes 40 minutes to arrive, I accept it.

What I'm saying is that I don't know how to blog about life here anymore because nothing seems extraordinary anymore... its just my ordinary life again.

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new house

February 23, 2007

The new house

The new house is soo nice. We have a toilet that won't flush, no hot water, no kitchen and no furniture- but I'm so happy here! It just feels better, lighter. We bought a stove, so now we can eat and I bought a foam mattress, so I sleep nicely. Little by little we'll decorate- for now I'm happy just being away from our former landlords!

The new house is nice- two bedrooms, bathroom and a salon. The owners live in the same compound, but they are so quiet I forget they live here.

This change was necessary! It is forcing me to live in a way that I value and believe in, but also in a way that will make me a better person-I think. Since there's no TV I've already finished 2 books and a few Sudoku puzzles. We must prepare our food daily (no fridge) and prepare only what we can eat (or the beggars and dogs get it). We aren't preparing any meat or dairy products because they'll spoil. And my mornings are jumpstarted by cold showers!

I haven't met many neighbors and miss my old neighborhood- here no one says hello to me, no one stops to talk... but maybe when we get to know each other better!

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Kicked Out

Kicked Out!
February 13, 2007

Well I'm officially kicked out of my house! Those of you who know me, know that I've made some mistakes in my past and that I always exaggerate my stories- read on and know that none of this has been censored or exaggerated!

I guess I should start back a few months. My landlords are nice people, but not always the most helpful. I had no dishes or kitchenware- the hutch in the house was full of extra plates, pans, silverware, etc. The wouldn't let me use it- I accepted that.

They are very traditional and so I respected their values and tried to be as considerate as possible. I'm a night owl- but friends would leave early, I would turn off music, etc. to respect them- even though the would make noise no matter how early they woke up.

They went to our school and told our boss that we had someone living with us and so wanted to break our contract... the truth is that my roommate has a Rasta boyfriend (who doesn't smoke marijuana- at least not at our house) and they don't like his image. Since them then they have been nothing but rude to my roomie and her boyfriend- like they stare him down and give them the cold shoulder!

That is all trivial and actually irrelevant. On Saturday the mother landlord came to me and said she would have a party in MY house on Sunday from 11-7. I tried to explain that I don't have a problem with that, but that my friends were staying the night and I didn't want them to feel rushed... they replied, that they would come over to clean at 9 AM! I said that my roommate had been sick and I would have to check with her.

I checked with her and we decided NO... too short of notice (they'd been preparing the yard and food for days- the goat was already slaughtered!- and yet had failed t o ask our permission) I told the mother. She wasn't pleased.
That night the father landlord approached me while I was walking one friend out of the compound. I was holding my friend Rebecca's son. He wanted to know why we said no- I told him, my guests would be here in the morning, Sundays we rest, need to do a little lesson planning, blah, blah. He stopped talking, pointed at me and said, "You are a sinner... You are a sinner." I said, "Excuse me? We'll talk in the morning.

We are all sinners, I admit I am one- but he has n reason to judge me. Men rarely come over and they NEVER spend the night- we don't do drugs- we're polite. Who is he to judge?

The next morning we're sitting around the table having breakfast. Knock at the door. The mother and twenty some daughter come barging in the house. In Amharic the mother asks, "Will we have the party or not." Rebecca translated- "No." I invited them to sit down, cleared space, served tea- but hey didn't want to talk. As the mother began removing the locked away dishes I'm not allowed to use she yelled that if we didn't allow the party we had to be out on Monday! Then a long drawn out, unbelievable, ridiculous fight ensued. Basically she told everyone to shut up repeatedly, insulted everyone, refused to speak English but insisted my friend Rebecca (who was translating everything) leave and never come back to the house... Nothing was resolved. In the end we had to physically hold back the old lady and her daughter!!!! They were yelling at and going towards Rebecca!!!

Since then it has been nothing but cold shoulders! Yesterday we invited them over to talk- I don't want to live there, but I want to discuss our problems, what is their problem with me? Why did they get so upset? I want them to understand why we said No re: the party... After waiting for hours- they never came!
Tonight the same thing happened- I'm pissed their wasting my time! After asking them several times how much longer they'd be, finally the dad said he'd talk to us with our supervisors tomorrow at school!?

So I'm out- who knows where I'll live next. Things here are getting too complicated for my taste! Really- did I do something wrong? I pay $4000 birr a month, with one days notice I can say no to letting my landlord hold a party in the house, right???

POLICE SHOOTING

Police shot dead a young political dissident on Wednesday at Rufael, one of the northern suburbs of Addis Ababa.

Four federal police officers dragged Tesfaye Tadesse, 25, from his friend's home at 9:45 pm and shot him thrice on his chest and twice on his back. His family found his bullet-straddled body latter.

Tesfaye a notable kinijit organizer at his neighborhood had been arrested in June and November 2005 when EPRDF embarked upon massive crack down of dissent in the country. His friends said security men had repeatedly harassed him after he was released from detention in November.

Tesfaye's autopsy revealed that he had lost three of his front teeth and one eye due to severe beating. The police officers took him to a dark area in the village and beat him, eyewitnesses claimed. "When people living in the village started surrounding the police officers who were beating him, they shot him and drove away," one witness said.

Tesfaye's friend from whose home the deceased was taken said that he was instructed stay at the house when he asked the police officers where they were taking his friend.

Tesfaye is the sixth Kinijit organizer killed in Addis Ababa in the past week.

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HAPPY EPIPHANY! MELKUM TIMKAT!!

December 19, 2006

--Sorry these blog entries are soo long. I honestly am not telling you everything- Ethiopia is truly unique and I worry that if I leave out details you all won't be able to visualize and understand this amazing and beautiful culture.---

Early in the morning around 50,000 people dressed in white traditional clothes (less than attended last year's celebration) walked to one field in town. On one side monks with dread locks and heavy chains around their necks preached about penance. Beyond them, deacons preached of unity, a powerful message amidst this government's attempts to divide its people by ethnicity. Somewhere in t he crowd the Orthodox pope was present, but I never saw or heard him. Priests climbed ladders and sprayed holy water from hoses onto the people. And in the far corner of the field, the Talbots- the covenants- were protected from the sun by large, velvet, brightly colored umbrellas.

On the other side the people played an unnamed game which I'll call jebena. It is rather like a piñata- except the players are adults, the pinata is a clay coffee pot (jebena) and the one who breaks the pot wins money. Crowds stood around cheering on or trying to mislead the players.

And in the middle of the field every type of people came together to sing and dance for God. There were endless circles of people. There were the "mothers" groups. Apparently they have their own music and dance. They would sing in a call and response style song and shake their shoulders violently with thankfulness to God.

Then there were the groups that I'll call engagement circles. Because many Ethiopians are still very traditional and young women have little or no contact with men, this celebration is a time when they can meet, talk to and dance with men. My friend said that many people meet here, begin talking and usually end up engaged. In these groups the young boys enthusiastically jump up and down and sing. They do a hop dance in a circle. They try to entice the girls to join in the dancing. Of course the pure and polite girls refuse. The young men, much like animal mating rituals, then begin to show off and lure the girls in. They begin shaking their shoulders up and down, quivering all over. They make a "sssss" noise over and over. They'll toss the shoulders of their shirt back so that everyone can see their shoulder dance skill. Eventually the women join in. The men dance with them and sing with them.

Then there are the ethnic circles. The Oromo sing in Orominia. They arch their backs, they lean forward and rub their hands together, they kick one foot forward at a time. The other ethnic groups dance their respective dances in their respective languages. As I was walking from circle to circle it became so apparent how inseparable religion and culture are. This was a religious holiday, yet the traditional songs, which often had little to do with the Epiphany were being sung all over.

And of course the street kids have their own circles also. They gather, dance a little closer with each other than the other circles. They play the harmonica- well they make noise anyway.

After hours of joining the crowds around the circles, singing and clapping along- the Talbot are returned to the churches. A procession begins. Young children dressed like Catholic priests in green and white robes, monks, deacons with white head wraps and priests who look like royalty accompany the Talbots. The 50,000 people walk alongside the procession. The church music begins. The priests slowly beat the drums and there is a feeling of excitement in the air. Everyone becomes part of the procession. They sing about Sellasie- the trinity, Kidis- being blessed or Maryam- Mary. The music is slow and calm, but happy. Eventually everyone exits the field and then continue down the roads like a parade. Groups of friends run in crowds singing, other stop every few blocks and reform their circles to dance. EVERYONE is singing.

I walked for four hours! And the good news the day was totally peaceful. Last year riots began. This year I did not see one police officer and there were no political action at all. Maybe things are improving?!

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Ethiopian Christmas

January 7, 2006
Ethiopian Christmas

I went to my friend Helina's house first. Helina and I ate, then we watched Borat (The funniest movie ever- but too much penis!) with her parents while her brother and his wife ate. Then we left. Anti-climatic...

Next we went to Helina's boyfriend's mothers' house. We ate again. Then we sat and talked while other family members came, ate and left. Next we went to a co-worker's house. We ate and then sat with her neighbors when they came and ate. I didn't hear one reference to Jesus, not one prayer, no Santa... it was definitely different.

I never thought I'd say this, but I think I prefer our commercialized Christmas! Or maybe I just missed spending the day with my family and friends.

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Ghonder

Ghonder
December 25, 2006
MERRY CHRISTMAS!!
Well, yesterday I missed the ferry and instead caught a minibus to Gonder. I felt sick after the bus ride which was nothing short of a roller coaster- weaving back and forth, climbing to one of the highest areas In Ethiopia. But I was made healthy again from all your phone calls!! Thank you everyone! This morning I woke up with a swollen left eye- I though a bug had bitten me, but I went to see a doctor- who saw me before everyone else and didn't charge me anything. He said it is a cell growth?? And prescribed me eye dropsƒ I'll be wearing sunglasses for a while to hide my Quasimoto face. Anyway, so far I've seen palaces from the 16th century. They are falling down, but still amazing. It is quite confusing though to be in a country where now many children can't read, but which had amazing palaces, libraries, scholarship, etc. in the 16th century!
Every city must sound the same, but people here are so nice! I posed for pictures with about 7 Ethiopians. Apparently it is cool to take a photo with the farenji you've just said hello to.

Ghonder-On my way to visit an old palace I passed by all these huts. I began talking to a nice young man. He invited me into his home. I came to find out that he is a deacon teaching other young boys who want to be deacons. Two boys live in each of these huts. Inside they are about 3 feet by 3 feet ( a generous estimate). Stones are piled about 6-12 inches off the floor and covered with cardboard to make his bed. All of his possessions are there- photos, a Bible and other religious study material. Amazing how we can live such different lives.

January 8, 2007

January 8,2007
Well, let's just say that the trip became exhausting... I saw too much and experienced too much to fill y'all in on everything. Here is the abbreviated version:
1) Was seriously STALKED in Adigrat... I managed to stay safe, get the stalker out of my HOTEL ROOM, get him out of the restaurant I was eating in and get him off my bus- as I was trying to leave the town. I also think I successfully got him FIRED from the hotel, where he worked and I stayed.
2) Learned that Ethiopia is still VERY traditional. Apparently my traveling alone, being foreign and engaging in friendly conversation was interpreted as an invitation for being stalked. I think there is no excuse for his crazy behavior, but every man who I've told the story to seems to agree that if I TALKED to the guy it is reasonable that he assumed something romantic or physical would happen!!??
3) As I went South from Axum on my way to Christian Orthodoxy’s holy land- Lalibela, everything began to change... The men wear skirts which look like plaid sheets, held up by a thick belt. The older men wear dress shirts with their skirts and the young wore T-shirts supporting their favorite soccer players or Eminem. Most walk, wearing these skirts, hand in hand with rifles slung over their shoulders. For the first time the area looks predominately Muslim. Mosques dominate the skyline and most men sport skull caps or red and white towels on their heads. Everyone is selling or chewing chat. The women look very traditional, they wear leather baby carriers decorated with shells and leather fringes, wear traditional dresses, etc.

Lalibela

One of 13 rock hewn churches in Lalibela. Amazingly tall!!!

5)Lalibela-
2,630m high- amid rocky mountains you will find 13 rock hewn churches- together these churches make up the Orthodox holy land. Indescribable is what this city is. Legends abound about how angels constructed the churches... When you see these churches you actually begin to believe the legends. How can I explain them? The churches are carved into the ground. They are surrounded by walkways and courtyards, the sides of which are cut into hermit cells and stone tombs. One tomb still holds a body, hundreds of years old, but which hasn't decomposed!!! The churches are massive, ornately painted or carved inside. They are connected by an underground tunnel you can actually use. Every detail of the construction was intentional and symbolic.
Around 15,000 pilgrims, mostly poor rural people- came to Lalibela for Ethiopian Christmas. They walked the steep mountain, took buses, whatever... they lined the streets (literally) begging, slept on the church grounds and prayed all day. The women would enter the chanting rooms, pick up a drum and begin singing their praises. They did the traditional shoulder shaking dance and praised God, asked forgiveness, tried to excuse their loved ones who couldn't come. It was powerful.
Outside families undressed and bathed in holy water. Some would shriek and flail around as the holy water killed the devil within them. I watched a woman undress, her family tie a rope around her and drop her into a 10m deep fertility pool. The woman couldn't swim. Under water she said her prayers for a child, finally the family members pulled up the rope, the woman coughed up water and onlookers cheered.
I have seriously not done Lalibela justice... it is one place you must all visit, my words fail to describe it. It is too powerful, too full of faith and mysteries...

Rooftop view of one of 13 churches in Lalibela. (Do you see that it was built in the shape of a cross?

4) The rest of my trip was plagued with beggars, young guides who want money or sex and too much time on buses. It is unfortunate but by the end of the trip I didn't want to have anything to do with anyone!
--> I'm sick of people feeling entitled to my money, food, etc. simply because I am a foreigner. I'm sick of feeling guilty about others' poverty. I'm sick of being tricked out of money by false stories.
-->I'm sick of people thinking I will sleep with them since that is what they see on the movies. I'm sick of boys telling me inappropriate stories and alluding to topics I want nothing to do with! I'm sick of men asking for my e-mail before they even know my name. I'm sick of people telling me they love, when they obviously don't!
--> I'm sick of people suggesting I be their sponsor. I'm sick of fruit vendors trying to marry me off to their brothers for a US VISA. I'm sick of women asking if I have brothers they can marry
And most of all I'm sick of my current attitude. To you all I must sound insensitive, but really people have no shame and EXPECT everything from you as a foreigner. I want to trust people. I want to have conversations and make friends for the sake of having conversation and making friends... but it seems that that just isn't possible when people are so poor and so desperate to find a way out of poverty and this country!
I heard plan after plan of how whichever Ethiopian I was talking to was going to the US. Brothers are arranging fake marriages with their sisters in the states, people are paying thousands for a fake marriage, people are sending their children to be adopted by friends and families in the States. Young boys are learning Eritrean accents, history, etc., running away to refugee camps, if they are passed off as Eritrean, they get to enter the States as refugees!

A man in Lalibela weaving scarves

Photos

Photos
I've had a bit of a personal struggle with taking pictures. At first I just felt strange- rude taking people's photos. I decided I would ask first, then I realized people here charge to take photos- they charge a lot… so sorry, but you won't be getting many portraits.

Tricia in Ethiopia

February 07, 2018

April 08, 2017

July 09, 2016

Hi blog

May 31, 2007

UPDATE

April 02, 2007

MS. JILL GOT FIRED!

March 31, 2007

Sponsors

Ethiopian Dream Interpretation

FTA update- March 22

The birthday party

March 17, 2007

February 22, 2007

new house

February 15, 2007

Kicked Out

January 21, 2007

POLICE SHOOTING

January 20, 2007

HAPPY EPIPHANY! MELKUM TIMKAT!!

January 16, 2007

Ethiopian Christmas

January 15, 2007

Ghonder

January 14, 2007

January 8, 2007

Lalibela

Photos

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